Un-wiring n-way switches for UPB

[tannebil]

I've converted some of my regular 2-way switches to UPB and I am getting ready to tackle some 3-way and 4-way switches. In general, I don't think I need to keep the n-way wiring as my switches tend to be located in banks so I'm figuring that I'll wire one load switch in a bank and provide the n-way functionality using a multi-rocker faceplate on the that switch. I've only been using SA US2-40 switches.

There are two things I need to decide before starting. The first is the changes to the physical wiring. Everything I see is about how to wire a 3/4-way switch and nothing talks about unwiring them. I think all I need to do is wire nut the hot (black) wires and cap off the travelers at the points where I'm removing the switches. Is that correct? Is there any reason to prefer installing the US2-40 at the switch closest to the panel or closest to the fixture? Any suggestions as to the best way to document the removal so that it would be easy to put the standard switches back at a later date? I've got a label maker but I'm reluctant to stick anything into the box other than wires and switches.

The second is more cosmetic. I've got a number of boxes that will go from having multiple switches to just one switch. Anybody have a suggestion for the best way to handle. I could leave the non-working switches installed so the wall plate doesn't look odd but that I'm sure to get some pushback from the family about switches that don't do anything. I could wire in non-load UPB switches but I'd rather not spend $1000+ on switches that I don't really need. Are there blanks that I could just use with the existing wall plates? Any other ideas? All my existing switches are Decora.

Thanks, Bill

 

[michelkenny]

My Home Depot in Canada has these: http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=903892&Ntt=903892&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

 

[drozwood90]

[ of course do all this work with the breaker off!!]
They way I did my 4-way was to figure out WHICH was the load switch...put that UPB switch in as I normally would.

Then, I just figured out which traveler I needed to tie into THAT switch's HOT to get the 120V over. I then used the same traveler for the same all the way through the circuit. The other traveler I capped off. Same with the "n-way" 2-40's HOTs. I wanted them to turn on (LED tracking), but I did not want the hot wire exposed. Why not cut it off? I didn't know if I would keep the switch there. So, I just capped the wire.

For me, I just labeled the wires at the "load" switch. For me, the colors followed through the WHOLE circuit...but really, it's not that complex. You've got 3 wires that come across to the 4-way. Then, three that leave to the next 4 way or the last 3way.

Check out this image:
http://www.mccarthyplace.com/hobbies/electrical/three_way_switch/images/three_way_with_four_way.gif

Came from:
http://www.mccarthyplace.com/hobbies/electrical/three_way_switch/#

by THAT drawing, the lower right switch ("last" 3-way) will be your LOAD 2-40. It will power the light fixture. When we built, I paid to have 120V and Neutrals in EVERY box, so mine was a little different than this drawing (which is more typical). If you do not, hook up the BLACK traveler as 120V. You can tie EACH switch into this line as is passes from j-box to j-box until you hit the "load" switch. This line will POWER the switch, but the "load" line on the 2-40 will power the fixture. It has been a while, but I think this is the brown wire on the back of the 2-40. Next (by the drawing) hook that switch up with Neutral and GND.

After this, program the switches. What I did was program a link between all the switches. This way, you can turn on the load from any other 4-way switch...as they will all transmit the LINK to turn things on/off. Works very well. My wife once told me she couldn't tell which switch was the load one...they all seem to respond at the same time.

--Dan

 

[tmbrown97]

I personally wouldn't see a point in leaving unused switches anywhere... I looked at those locations and either put in a USR Remote switch, or in a couple places I put a US240 in there as a scene switch. Having a blank there seems like a wasted opportunity to put in better control.